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]]>Q: How long should Soy Candles cure?
One of the most frequent questions I’m asked is how long should soy candles cure – The answer to this question varies depending on the wax and scent used. I would never use a candle in less than 24 hours of pouring it. I would refer to that as the “set” time of the candle. Curing, to me, is the amount of time to allow the soy wax to properly absorb and fuse with the color and scent to make a candle that burns to it’s fullest potential. So if you your soy candle is unscented, 24 hours should be a fine cure time. Other scents (a cucumber melon I use for instance) I find needs about 5 days to get it’s best scent throw where CB135 soy wax with “Love Spell” from candle science requires a full two weeks to get to a point where I am happy with the hot throw. Play with your candles and let THEM tell you how long they need to cure. Experimenting is everything when it come to candle making. There are so many variables that there is no right or wrong answer.
Q: Why should I use Soy Wax?
I’ll keep this one short – Renewable, Clean, helps US Farmers.
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]]>Jen Lew Designs
JenLewDesigns.com
Great forum discussing soy candles, candle & soap scents, natural soaps and other crafts
CraftServer.com
-When you sign up for an account, let them know kkentert sent you!
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]]>Great Candle Fragrance Oils
Just about every fragrance you could ever imagine, and from what i’ve seen, most do pretty well in soy wax. I haven’t tested any in other vegetable waxes such as soy.
www.candlechem.com
Glass Containers
Glass containers for candles
I use the 7.5oz and 11oz tumblers..to me they seem to be the perfect two sizes.
I also spend the extra money for the frosted candles. Since I usually only make white soy candles, I feel the frosted give a more elegant look.
www.fairwayglass.us
Other
Currently Testing Nature’s Garden scents. We will put a link up when/if we like the samples we ordered in. WE will be testing in Golden Brands 464 soy wax
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]]>There are many brands of soy wax on the market. I’m only going to discuss the few I’ve personally experimented with and one that has been recommended by a very reliable source. (though I haven’t tried it yet)
Type 1: Enchanted Lights Soy Wax:
I was underwhelmed by this wax. The Good side of it is that is is 100% soy wax. There aren’t any additives so you are able to list it as 100% on your lable.
Downside: I did not have a goood throw with this wax, experienced a large amount of frosting, and pulling away from the walls, and the votive wax wasleaving large voids in my candles. My advice-try it if you’d like, but I’d avoid wasting time & money – just try for another wax.
Type 2: EcoSoya:
Wow! EcoSoya CB-135 is a pleasure to work with. There is very little frosting and the throw is very good. I’m told that the 100% Soy EcoSoya throws even better, but it frosts quite a bit, so only use it in opaque or frosted jars/tins.
The CB-135 left a beautifully smooth top, and was a very easy ONE POUR wax. If you’ve never made soy candles, give this wax a try!
EcoSoya also makes a Pillar blend which can be used for Pillars and Votives. I have not tried it yet, but am very excited to!
Type 3: Cargill NatureWax
I have not tried this, but a very reliable source of mine LOVES it. It does frost, and it’s adhesion isn’t 100%, but it has a very nice throw. If you’re using a frosted/opaque jar, you can give this one a try too. You’ll have to make up your own mind on this, but I have found the EcoSoya is still prefered.
Type 4: Ecosoya Pillar wax
REVIEW PENDING. I will say that it perfoms beautifully when combined with 25% parafin pillar wax.
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]]>For now, I’ll sum it up with
1-It’s a renewable resource.
2-Clean-up is a snap!
3-It helps American farmers
4-It burns clean, free of sut & carcinogens!
(to elaborte, it’s considered a 0 green house contributor because they put out so little CO2 when burning that
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]]>Disclaimer: Making candles involves the use of a stove, hot wax, and occasional chemicals. Please take all safety precautions possible. Remember to use potholders when picking up hot pots, and wear safety glasses when measuring & mixing scents. These directs are simply a guide to how I make my candles. There is no claim that this is the only way, or even the correct way, but it works for me!
Candle Making Equipment
What you need:
• Scale (Anything that measures in oz should be fine.)
• Double Broiler (a large pot and a smaller pouring pot work well for this)
• Thermometer
• Wax (I use EcoSoya CB-135 container wax)
• Container for candles
• Wicks
• Hot Glue Gun
• Scent (optional)
• Color (optional)
Measure Wax:
Weigh Wax
For your first time making candles, a pound of wax is a good place to start. When measuring, it is important to use weight instead of volume. Volume is different depending on the temperature. Weight is the only consistent way to measure materials.
Melt Wax:
Unmelted Wax
Now that your wax is measured, add the wax to a double broiler. I don’t like cleaning, so I try to use as few pots as possible. To do this, I simply put the wax into the pour pot , then put the pour pot into a pot of hot water. Turn the burner on your stove on, and boil the water in the lower pot to melt the wax. The double boiler will help prevent your wax from burning.
Melting Wax
As your wax melts, be sure to watch and stir continually. Tip: If you use your thermometer to stir, there’s one less thing you have to wash!
Wick Containers:
Dip Wick
While your wax is melting, take the opportunity to wick your containers. There are numerous ways to do this, and I probably use the worst method. I simply dip the wick tabs in the melting wax, and press them into the bottom CENTER of the container. Be sure they are as close to center as you can make them. Flipping the glass upside down and looking through the bottom of the container will help you center the wick a bit easier.
Two better ways to do this are a hot glue gun, and wick tabs/glue dots. They’re faster and easier than the wax method…I don’t know why I’m still using the other method.
UPDATE: Don’t be a dummy like me! Use a Hot Glue Gun! I just started using one….boy is it easier!
Set Wick
New Update: I’m an idiot, and you should forget everything about wicking written before this. Go to a craft store, and get wick stick. It’s a sticky wax that will let you move the wick around as much as you want after putting it in place to center it. It’s by far the BEST thing i’ve used. Of course hot glue is cheaper in the long run.
Cut Tape or Use Wick Holder
Now, you have to make sure your wicks are going to stand up straight so your finished candles burn properly. For this, I take a piece of scotch tape and cut a slot in the center of it. Once you have the tape prepared, gently slide it over the wick, and stretch the tape across the top of the container, centering the wick. A better way to do this would be with little metal tools they call wick bars. They are a quick easy way to keep your wicks straight.
Center Wick
Filled Candles
Prepare all of your containers the same way so they are ready to be poured.
At this point, you may want to warm them in a low oven..this is optional, but sometimes helps the candles cool better. Just warm them until they are warm to touch.
Melted Wax
By now, your wax should be melted. You want the temperature to get up to around 160-175 degrees. Once the wax hits that temperature range, you can remove the wax from the hot water bath.
Mix in Your Dye:
Now is the time to mix in your dye. I recommend using liquid dyes. They are the fasted easiest way to color your candles. One drop will go a long way. If you want pastel candles, one drop should be plenty for a pound. You may want to use as many as 6-8 drops for darker colored candles.
Allow the Wax to Cool:
cool wax
Cool the wax to your pouring temperature. I generally pour EcoSoya CB-135 at 125 degrees. This give me a smooth top, and good adhesion on the sides of the container. Watch your temperature the wax will initially cool faster than you expect, but once it gets to 130 degrees of so, it will start to cool a bit slower. TIP: If you used my terrible wax method of putting your wicks in, you may want to pour a small bit wax into the bottom of the container around the wick. This will cool in a few minutes and hold your wick in place a bit better when your are pouring your wax in a bit.
Measure Scent:
Weight Scent
While your wax is cooling, take a moment to measure your scent. A general rule of thumb for scent in candles is 1 ounce of scent per pound of wax, but every wax is different. If you are following CandleScience’s wick guide, remember they use 1oz/lb.
Add Scent:
Add Scent
When the wax is a few degrees away from your pouring temperature, it is time to add your fragrance. Slowly pour the fragrance in while stirring the wax. Continue stirring for a few moments to ensure the fragrance has been thoroughly incorporated into the wax.
Pour Candles:
Pour Wax
Once your wax has reached your pouring temperature, it is time to make the candles. Simply pour the wax into the bottom of the container in a slow, steady stream-That’s all there is to it!
Allow Candles to Cure:
Cure Candles
Your candles are going to need a long time to cure. You should leave them alone for at least 24 hours . (Candles over two pounds may need even more time to cure) Try not to move them around during the curing period.
Finished Candle
If done correctly, you should have nice smooth tops on your candles, and they should be adhered all around the sides of your container.
That’s it! Your Done.,
Cut the wicks to 1/4″ and enjoy your candles!
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